Seventeen thousand islands, the equator and two monsoons: somewhere in Indonesia it's always the season. The only question is where. We look at how the local weather works and which month suits beaches, diving and volcanoes.

You book a hotel in Bali for January, and you're caught in a downpour that's on its third day. You book for August, and it's dry and sunny, but prices are at their peak and there's nowhere to park your scooter in Ubud.

Indonesia isn't a country where you can stick a pin in the calendar at random. There are two seasons, and they play out differently on different islands. The same destination can be perfect in October and unbearable in January. Or the other way round.

Two Seasons, and No Winter

Indonesia stretches along the equator, and there are no classic seasons here. There's a dry season and a rainy season, both driven by the monsoons.

The dry season across most of the country runs from April–May to September–October. There's little rain, humidity is lower and the skies are clearer. Air temperatures on the coast are 28–32°C by day and 23–26°C at night. The ocean is 26–29°C all year round, at its coolest in August and its warmest in March.

The rainy season runs from November to March. The wettest months are December, January and February. But Indonesia's "rainy season" isn't a relentless wall of water. A typical day: a sunny morning, a short downpour after lunch (from half an hour to a couple of hours), and clear skies again by evening. Completely overcast days do happen, but not every day.

Air temperatures barely change in the rainy months: it's the same 28–32°C. The difference is the humidity: the air is heavy and muggy, clothes take ages to dry, and there are noticeably more mosquitoes.

Bali: A Classic That Works From May to October

Most visitors fly to Indonesia for Bali, and for Bali the weather logic is simple.

May to September is the best time. There's little rain (just one or two rainy days a month in September and October), the wind is moderate and the ocean is calm on the east coast. This is high season: prices peak, hotels are full, and Canggu and Ubud are packed.

April and October are transition months and an excellent compromise. The weather is still (or already) good, and prices are lower. In Bali, October is still mostly dry: there's not much rain, although the wet season is on its way.

November to March is the wet season. January has around ten rainy days. The ocean is murkier, and there's more rubbish on the beaches, washed in by the currents. But you can still have a good holiday at this time: sunbathe in the morning, wait out the downpour in a café after lunch. The big plus is that hotel prices drop, and the temples and rice terraces empty out.

For surfing, the seasons divide differently. In the dry season (April to October), the best waves are on the west coast: Uluwatu, Padang Padang and Canggu. The swell peaks in July and August, with waves of up to 3 metres. The wet season suits beginners: the waves are smaller, and the east coast breaks (Keramas, Nusa Dua) come into play.

Java: Volcanoes, Temples and the Same Rhythm

Java follows the same monsoon rhythm as Bali: dry from May to October, wet from November to March.

For volcano climbs (Bromo, Ijen and Semeru), the dry season is a must. In the rain, the trails wash out, clouds cover the craters, and you may simply miss the famous sunrise over Bromo. The best months are June to September.

Yogyakarta (for Borobudur and Prambanan) is comfortable from May to October, but it's perfectly doable in the shoulder season too: the rain doesn't usually get in the way of temple visits.

Lombok and the Gilis: Drier Than You'd Think

Lombok and the Gili Islands are Bali's closest neighbours, but they get less rain. The dry season runs from May to September, and it really is dry: there's almost no rain.

For diving in the Gilis, the best time is April to September: visibility of up to 30 metres and moderate currents. Turtles can be seen all year round. In January and February the sea is rough, and boat crossings are sometimes cancelled.

Climbing Rinjani, Indonesia's second-highest volcano, is only possible in the dry season, from April to October, ideally in July to September.

Komodo and Flores: Dragons Like It Dry

Komodo National Park is open all year round, but it's best to go in the dry season, from April to November. The trails are dry, underwater visibility is good, and the Komodo dragons are more active.

The best months are April to June and September to October: the heat is moderate and there are fewer tourists than in the peak months of July and August. In November the rains begin, the sea gets rough and boat trips may be cancelled.

Diving around Komodo is a story of its own. The currents here are strong, but they're exactly what brings in the manta rays: the season runs from December to April, peaking in January and February.

Raja Ampat: Everything in Reverse

Raja Ampat, an archipelago off the western tip of Papua, runs on the opposite calendar. When Bali is dry, it's rainy and windy here. When it's pouring in Bali, Raja Ampat has its best conditions.

October to April is Raja Ampat's dry season: the sea is calm and underwater visibility is 20–30 metres. The manta season peaks from December to March. It's one of the best places in the world for diving, with more than 1,500 species of fish and 75% of all known coral species.

July and August are the roughest months: many dive boats suspend operations, and visibility drops to 10–15 metres.

Raja Ampat is the place for anyone who wants to escape the Balinese "winter": while Bali gets the downpours, here it's sunshine and mantas.

Sumatra and Kalimantan: Rain Is Never Far Away

Sumatra and Kalimantan (Borneo) have a wetter climate than Bali and Java. Rain is possible at any time of year, but there's less of it in the dry season (June to September).

In Sumatra, the north and south run on different rhythms: in the north (Lake Toba and the jungles of Bukit Lawang, home to orangutans), rainfall peaks from October to January; in the south, from November to February. For orangutan watching, the best months are June to September: less rain, drier trails, and the apes come further down.

In Kalimantan (Tanjung Puting and river cruises to see orangutans), July to September is ideal. January is the wettest month.

Costs and Getting There

Direct flights from Moscow to Bali are operated by Aeroflot (since September 2024). The journey takes about 12 hours. The alternative is a connecting flight via Dubai, Doha, Abu Dhabi or Istanbul: longer, but often cheaper.

In the low season (November to March, except for the New Year weeks), flights and hotels are noticeably cheaper than in the peak months of July and August.

Visas

Russians entering Indonesia need a visa on arrival (VOA), which you can get at the airport or apply for in advance online (e-VOA). It costs 500,000 rupiah (about $30) and is valid for 30 days, with the option to extend for another 30.

On arrival in Bali, there's also a tourist levy of 150,000 rupiah (about $10). That makes about $40 per person in total for the visa and levy.

For trips longer than 30 days, there's the C1 tourist visa (up to 60 days, extendable to 180). It costs 1,000,000 rupiah and requires a bank statement.

Which Month to Choose

  • May and June: the start of the dry season in Bali, Java, Lombok and Komodo. The weather is already excellent, prices haven't peaked yet, and there are fewer tourists. Perhaps the best window for a first trip.

  • July and August: maximum sunshine and the best surf, but also maximum crowds and prices. If your holiday is tied to these months, book early.

  • September and October: Bali and Java are still dry, and Komodo is at its best. Prices drop and the crowds thin out. October is a great start to the season in Raja Ampat.

  • November to March: the wet season in western Indonesia, but the dry season in Raja Ampat. If you don't mind afternoon downpours in Bali, you'll get discounts and empty beaches. If you want guaranteed sunshine, fly east across the archipelago.

  • April: a transition month, when the rains are easing off but high prices haven't kicked in yet. Good for Bali, Java and Lombok.

Indonesia isn't one country with one season but a mosaic of climates. When it's pouring on one island, the sun is shining on another. The question isn't "when should I go to Indonesia" but where exactly you want to go.